‘Me gusta Malasaña, me gustas tú’ sang Manu Chao in his very popular song ‘Proxima estación: Esperanza’. You will probably sing it too after visiting one of Madrid’s most peculiar neighbourhoods.
Often ignored by tourists, who don’t find famous sights and monuments here, Malasaña is a creative neighbourhood that changes rapidly and is always on the cutting edge.
Cradle of underground culture and Movida with a capital M, in the sense of the countercultural movement born in the 1980s in the newly-born post-Francoist Spain, Malasaña is the most popular neighbourhood among Madrid’s hipsters. With its alternative clubs and vintage shops, it closely resembles London’s Camden Town.
It is worth spending some time here to get to know alternative and underground Madrid. There is enough to do to fill an entire day, well into the night.
You can have a coffee al fresco in the historic Plaza Dos de Mayo, shop at the designer market, browse the comic book exhibitions at the ABC museum, catch experimental theatre performances or stay out with friends to drink and chat late into the night. All to the beat of indie/rock, punk and pop music.
The nerve centre of the district is Plaza Dos de Mayo, a popular meeting place for Madrileños of all ages and the best starting point for exploring the neighbourhood on foot.
The square’s name recalls Madrid’s insurrection against Napoleon’s occupying troops in 1808, while the statue that dominates the square depicts Daoiz and Velarde, artillery officers who fought alongside the people.
During the insurrection of 2 May 1808, the French imprisoned and killed the seamstress Manuela Malasaña, to whom the quarter was later dedicated.
Far removed from the bloody episodes of the 19th century, today Plaza 2 de Mayo in Madrid is a sunny place, full of terraces and cafés with outdoor tables. Here in the spring and autumn months, DosdeMarket is held, a lovely market with stalls of young Spanish designers where you can buy T-shirts, jewellery and drawings.
If you love drawing and illustration, a must-see for you is the ABC Museum, entirely dedicated to these two graphic arts. It is probably the best European museum of its kind, thanks to its numerous activities, including exhibitions and workshops, and its exceptional location.
The museum is housed in a modern building converted from a former brewery that is a jewel of contemporary architecture and a must-see.
Another important cultural centre in the Malasaña district is Cuartel del Conde Duque, which regularly organises concerts, exhibitions and fairs: check out the beautiful Baroque palace that houses it.
In an area as rich in cultural ferment as Malasaña, it is not surprising to find some of the best-known theatres in Madrid.
Opened in 1880, before there was electric light, the Gran Via and the metro, the Teatro Lara is the oldest working theatre in Madrid and one of the most beautiful. Its small size and singular beauty earned it the nickname ‘Bombonera de Don Candido’ (named after its founder, Candido Lara).
It still represents a landmark in Madrid’s cultural life; the current programming focuses on North American cabaret and musicals.
Malasaña is also home to Madrid’s most original theatre, Microteatro por dinero, housed in a former closed house. In the tiny rooms of the micro-theatre, which can accommodate a maximum of 15 spectators, 15-minute plays with a single theme are performed.
The plays are performed continuously throughout the day and it is therefore possible to see several of them in one visit; between performances enjoy a drink or snack in the bar-restaurant.
The Malasaña district is famous for its lively nightlife. If Chueca is the district of trendy clubs and gay bars, Malasaña is Madrid’s hipster area.
Indie/rock venues and unpretentious bars abound, alongside kitschy lounges and terrace bars; many young people gather in parks and squares for the all-Spanish ritual of the botellón, which is nothing more than open-air drinking while sitting in a circle.
To sleep in Malasaña, we recommend the Calle de San Bernardo area, especially its central zone next to the Noviciado metro stop, so you can easily reach all corners of Madrid. If you are looking for a bit of local movida, move without hesitation to Plaza del Dos de Mayo, where you will find cafés and shops, as well as a children’s play area. Perfect for the whole family!
Malasaña is the district in the centre of Madrid that lies to the north-west of Gran Via, bordering Chueca, which is its north-eastern section.
You can therefore easily reach it on foot from the city centre, while if you come from outside, you have a wide choice of metro stops to choose from: along its perimeter are Plaza de Espana, Santo Domingo, Gran Via, Tribunal, Bilbao, San Bernardo and Ventura Rodriguez, while in the geographical centre of the Malasaña quaertiere is the Noviciado stop.
Malasaña is located in the centre of Madrid, between the districts of Chueca and Argüelles. It can be reached by metro, getting off at Tribunal, San Bernardo or Bilbao.
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