Lavapiés

Curious to discover multi-ethnic Madrid? Visit Lavapiés, the district of the Spanish capital that divides its visitors into enthusiastic admirers and fervent detractors. Either love it or hate it, this is how Lavapiés is generally described.

Its charm lies not in the magnificence typical of Madrid’s more touristy districts, but in its liveliness: Lavapiés is a picturesque neighbourhood, a maze of narrow streets and small houses where scents and colours from all over the world mingle.

It was formerly a Jewish ghetto and it is to a fountain that Jewish worshippers used to wash their feet before entering the synagogue that the neighbourhood owes its name.

What makes Lavapiés interesting for the tourist? Well, it is the undisputed realm of ethnic cuisine, where you can eat the best kebabs in Madrid and taste Indian, Moroccan, Senegalese and many other national cuisines; the nightlife comes alive with Arab, African, Latin American rhythms.

Moreover, the district is extremely interesting for those who love art and culture because an incredible number and variety of cultural centres, bookshops, cinemas and theatres are concentrated here. After paying homage to the sacred monsters of art history in Madrid’s great museums, it is therefore a must to come to Lavapiés to sample the ferment of new artistic expressions in the most diverse disciplines.

What to do in Lavapiés

Lavapiés is the perfect area for an urban stroll with no other purpose than to be inebriated by the scents, colours and sounds: in a word, by the liveliness of everyday life.

There are no statues or elegant buildings to photograph: the typical architectural element of the neighbourhood are the Corralas, popular houses built around a patio. Walking around the neighbourhood, however, you can make a myriad of exciting little discoveries.

Speaking of buildings, if you are interested in learning more about this popular neighbourhood, don’t miss what is certainly one of the best examples of corralas: you will find it at the intersection of calle Tribulete and calle Mesón de Paredes.

Also not to be missed during a walk in Lavapiés is a snack in one of the many restaurants and ethnic kiosks, while for a drink choose one of the bars in Calle Argumosa, where many Madrileños meet to chat with friends.

Mercado de San Fernando

An interesting place to grab a gourmet snack or buy fresh produce is the Mercado de San Fernando, an indoor market founded in 1944 and recently renovated. Less famous than the neighbouring Mercato del Rastro, it is popular with locals.

The exterior is imposing and austere and it is hard to imagine the hustle and bustle of activity going on inside. In addition to food to be cooked or ready-made, you can also buy handicrafts, clothing and… books by the pound!

The latter is the original proposal of the used book stall La Casqueria: you choose the books you like, put them on the scales, the price is set, you buy them. Fun, isn’t it?

Cultural life in Lavapiés

It may not boast the great museums of the Paseo del Arte, but Lavapiés can be described – without exaggeration – as a hotbed of art and culture, thanks to its high concentration of cultural centres, theatres and cinemas, bookshops, events and projects for cultural promotion.

One only has to mention the Barrio de Teatros project to get the measure of the cultural ferment that animates Lavapiés: this is an initiative for the promotion of theatre that brings together no less than 14 different theatres, very diverse in terms of location and programme.

The best known of the district’s cultural centres is La Casa Encendida, a monumental building in neo-Mudéjar style, an artistic style typical of 19th century Madrid.

The numerous halls of the centre, occupying a total area of 6,000 m2 on four floors, host workshops, theatre performances, film screenings, exhibitions and other cultural events: space is given to all modes of expression, with an emphasis on the avant-garde. The terrace on the top floor is used as an open-air cinema in the summer months.

An old tobacco factory has been converted into La Tabacalera, another very active cultural centre in the neighbourhood, run by a residents’ assembly, which organises cultural events popular with locals.

Really nice, with a romantic and nostalgic charm, is the Cine Doré, opened in 1923: it is currently the projection room of the Filmoteca Española, the historical archive of the Spanish film heritage. The interesting screenings are very reasonably priced; if you don’t understand Spanish, it is still worth coming to take a look at this historic building from the outside.

This district is also home to the Teatro Circo Price, Madrid’s permanent circus, housed in a former biscuit factory. Founded in 2002, it is used for circus performances and more: it hosts concerts, exhibitions, workshops, theatre and dance performances.

Events in Lavapiés

Lavapiés is certainly not a dormitory district; on the contrary, it pulsates with energy and vitality. In addition to the very active cultural centres, life in the district is enlivened by numerous cultural and gastronomic events that are organised throughout the year.

Not to be missed are the traditional festivals, which are experienced here with genuine passion and participation. To get to the heart of Madrilenian festive culture, visit Lavapiés during the San Lorenzo festivities, between the 9th and 11th of August.

More recent events include the Lavapiés Film Festival and Tapapiés, a tapas-themed itinerary through the streets of the district that takes place every autumn.

Where to stay in Lavapiés

If you want to experience the true soul of Lavapiés, find accommodation in the Plaza de Lavapiés area, the beating heart of the district and also a transport hub, as this is where the metro is located. It is the best area of the neighbourhood to have numerous bars and restaurants close at hand, however, tranquillity is not guaranteed. If you want a better chance of sleeping at night, move to the side areas of Lavapiés, or south of the Ronda de Atocha.

Recommended hotels in Lavapiés

How to get to Lavapiés

The brilliant neighbourhood of Lavapiés occupies roughly one square kilometre of the south-eastern part of central Madrid, bordering Atocha station to the east. It can be easily reached by metro, getting off at the Lavapies stop of line 3, located right in the heart of the district, in Plaza de Lavapies.

Alternatively, you can use the line 1 stops Tirso de Molina and Anton Martin to the north or Estacion del Arte to the east, or Embajadores to the south on line 3.

Is Lavapiés dangerous?

Many tourists fear that being a densely populated area, with a predominance of immigrants, Lavapiés is a dangerous neighbourhood.

Unfortunately, Lavapiés carries a reputation as a bad and run-down neighbourhood, but this is only a legacy of the years following the civil war: just take the normal precautions that one uses during holidays in big cities and use common sense to avoid hassles and mishaps.