San Lorenzo de Escorial, or more simply El Escorial, is an enchanting location in the heart of the Sierra de Guadarrama, the mountain range north of Madrid that forms a natural border to the capital’s urban area.
It is one of the most spectacular natural landscapes in the region, and perhaps in the whole of Spain, and right here you will find another wonder, this time man-made: the Monastery and Real Sitio of San Lorenzo de l’Escorial (also known as Real Monasterio), the family pantheon of the kings of Spain, the first example of Herrenian architecture and symbol of the Spanish ‘siglo de oro’.
It was Philip II who wanted to build this monumental architectural complex after the death of his father Charles V to affirm the power of the House of Austria in Spain and to hand down the eternal memory of the family over the centuries.
It can well be said that he succeeded in his intention because the numerous tourists who come here every day to admire this magnificent building will never forget the emotion they felt in front of such beauty.
Due to its proximity to Madrid, the Real Monasterio can be visited on a half-day trip from the capital, but we recommend that you stay longer to also take a look at the pretty town centre of Escorial and perhaps sample some sweet specialities such as violet candies or bizcochelas, a delicacy made with chocolate, egg yolk and sponge cake.
The Royal Monastery of El Escorial is an elegant architectural complex of monumental dimensions in granite stone, whose construction required the destruction of numerous villages.
In total, the complex occupies an area of 33,000 square metres, the main façade is 207 metres long and there are four towers 55 metres high, some fifteen cloisters, 13 oratories, more than 80 staircases and as many fountains, and more than 1,700 works of art including paintings and sculptures.
It is the first and one of the most significant examples of Herrenian style architecture, named after the architect Juan de Herrera and characterised by a linear line and the absence of decorative elements that might distract attention from contemplating the building as a whole.
We doubt that anything could distract your attention while admiring such an extraordinary palace. You are more likely to be enraptured by its beauty and dream of being a king or queen strolling through its sumptuous rooms.
Construction of the monastery began in 1563 under the direction of Juan Bautista de Toledo. When he died in 1567, the task of completing the work was entrusted to Juan de Herrera, whose style is clearly recognisable in the final appearance of the monastery.
In 1971, the monastery was declared a Historic-Artistic Complex and only 13 years later was it included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
A visit to the Royal Monastery of Escorial is a walk into the past, into opulence, into grandeur. In addition to the sumptuous halls, inside there is a basilica, the tombs of kings, two museums, a library and the seat of one of the most important choirs in Spain.
The main entrance is the west entrance, which leads directly to the Patio of the Kings and from there to the basilica, commissioned by Philip II to compensate for the destruction of a church dedicated to San Lorenzo during a battle fought in France. Inside the basilica you can admire a marble statue by Benvenuto Cellini, a painting by El Greco and the tombs of Charles V and Philip II.
The next room is the interesting Museum of Architecture, where you will discover how the ambitious project of the Royal Monastery was realised through reproductions of the plans used for its construction, the tools used and documents showing the cost of the work.
The Painting Museum displays works by Spanish, Italian and Flemish painters from the 16th and 17th centuries, including El Greco, Zurbarán, Ribera, Tintoretto, Titian, Rubens and Veronese.
Then move on to the east wing of the complex, known as Casa de los Austrias: you can see the Hall of Battles, decorated with frescoes of some of the most important battles won by the Spanish crown, and the private rooms of Philip II and Princess Isabella Clara Eugenia.
From there you descend to the Pantheon of the Kings, the monumental burial place of many kings of the House of Austria and the Bourbons, while queens who died without children are buried in the Pantheon of the Infantes.
Spend some time also in the two gardens of the monastery, the Friar’ s Gardens and the Prince’s Gardens: the latter will take you back to the station and from there you can easily reach the city centre. Don’t forget to take a look at the Prince’s Lodge (can only be visited by appointment), a neoclassical jewel commissioned by Charles III for his heir son and built by Juan de Villanueva in 1772.
Guided tours are available, lasting approximately one hour, leaving every 15 minutes. If you prefer to visit the palace on your own, you can request an audio guide, available in several languages.
It is possible to leave the palace and re-enter an unlimited number of times on the day the ticket is valid.
Another possibility is to book a one-day tour to Escorial with transport to and from Madrid, perhaps combining the visit with other attractions such as the cities of Avila and Segovia, or the Valley of the Fallen.
After visiting the monastery, stay a little longer in Escorial to visit the historic centre of this pretty town, which is small and easy to explore on foot.
Walk along the perimeter of the northern façade of the monastery to reach Floridablanca Street, the main city thoroughfare lined with interesting historical buildings, including the Reales Cuarteles, Case de Oficios and Real Coliseo de Carlos III, recognisable by an information plaque. Also worth mentioning is the Cocheras del Rey, a coach house inside which a small museum has been set up.
For a dinner with a view, choose one of the restaurants along Floridablanca Street and you will be able to admire the monastery from the outside. Other areas of the centre full of bars and clubs are calle San Antón, plaza San Lorenzo and, a little further away, the Camino Horizontal.
San Lorenzo de Escorial is about sixty kilometres from Madrid and can be reached by car, train or bus in about an hour.
It is a good idea to rent a car because it allows you to visit Escorial and other fascinating places in one day. The historical cities of Segovia, Avila, Toledo and Salamanca are quite close and well connected.
Those who prefer to travel by public transport can take a bus from Moncloa station or a train from Atocha station.
On the north side of El Escorial, near Plaza de la Constitución, there are three hotels that are by far the best option for sleeping in the area. They are 3- or 4-star hotels with excellent services, very convenient for reaching the entrance to the palace in piadi without using a car and without stress. Out of season and during low season, prices are competitive, so why not take advantage of it? But remember to book in advance, otherwise availability may sell out.
Alternatively, in case these hotels are not available for your stay, there is a good choice of hotels, flats and places to stay in San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Some also offer a shuttle service to the entrance of the Monastery, while others are within walking distance.
Finally, if you arrive in El Escorial by train, be aware that there are no accommodations near the station except 1-2 kilometres away.
El Escorial is located about 45 kilometres from the centre of Madrid: simply drive north-west along the A6 motorway until you reach the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial.