Barcelona

Gràcia

Close to the centre by distance, the Gracia district is far from it by atmosphere. A city within a city where you can slow down the pace of your holiday.
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Has the frenetic pace of Barcelona ‘s city centre stunned you? Do you want to see a different image of Barcelona from the tourist postcards? Take the metro and get off at Fontana: once you exit the station, a completely different city will appear before your eyes, with narrow streets, low houses, local shops, lively squares.

It is the Gracia district, a city within a city, completely self-sufficient. A world of its own, and don’t be surprised: until the 19th century, this area was a separate municipality from Barcelona, but was later incorporated into the metropolis as the city grew unstoppably.

Most tourists come here to visit the district’s most famous attraction, Gaudí’s Parc Güell. Indeed, the beauty of the neighbourhood does not lie in a long list of must-see museums and monuments, but in its very special atmosphere that mixes the rhythms and habits of old neighbourhood life with a focus on new cultural ferments and trends.

It is a small, densely populated district, rich in history and a little bohemian, tied to its traditions, where old and young coexist peacefully, each with their own routine, and tourists can feel like true Barcelonians.

Suitable for people of all ages, Gracia is especially recommended for street photography enthusiasts, vermuth connoisseurs, coffee addicts and the curious.

Where is Gràcia?

The Gracia district is close to the most central areas of Barcelona. It can be reached from Plaça de Catalunya via Passeig de Gracia, a street overlooked by two of Gaudí’s masterpieces, the Casa Batllò and the Pedrera. It borders the chic Eixample district to the south (where the Sagrada Familia is located) and the Collserola hill to the north.

Getting to Gràcia is easy because the district is served by two metro lines (L3, green, and L4, yellow) and numerous buses.

Gràcia is essentially divided into two areas, clearly demarcated by the street named Traversa de Dalt. South of it are Vila de Gràcia and Gràcia Nova, the ‘original’ neighbourhoods of Gràcia, which represent its historical core. They are those closest to the centre of Barcelona, more touristic and better connected by public transport.

North of the Traversa de Dalt, on the other hand, the panorama changes completely, and you will realise this because the uphill streets begin: from here onwards, the hills of the northern part of Barcelona begin, culminating in the Parc Guell in the El Coll district behind it. The houses become fewer, the green spaces and trees planted along the streets increase, and the atmosphere is very different, more village than metropolis.

Things to do in Gràcia

Gràcia’s must-see jewel is Parc Güell, and if you have time, also drop by the Casa-Museu Gaudí, where the master of modernism lived, as well as Casa Vicens, another of his works in the neighbourhood. But Gracia certainly doesn’t end here: there are many other things not to be missed, from markets to squares and interesting monuments.

Parc Güell

1Gràcia, 08024 Barcelona, Spain

Parc Guell is one of Gaudi‘s most extraordinary creations. It is a magnificent park located in a privileged position, on the Carmel hill, from where you have an incredible view of Barcelona stretching all the way to the sea. And already this might be worth the price of the ticket (yes, because unfortunately for some years now, entrance to Parc Guell has been charged), but in reality there is much more! In fact, the park oozes Gaudí art from every pore, starting with the beautiful staircase that welcomes you at the entrance, halfway up which is the area’s icon: a statue of a dragon, which is actually supposed to be a salamander. It is essential to take a souvenir photo from here, although you will certainly not be alone.

Among the other marvels you will encounter walking up and down Parc Guell is an enormous colonnade: it is the Sala Hipostila, which in Gaudí’s intentions should have housed a large market. A short distance away is a square, which is precisely the one from which you can admire the panorama of Barcelona that we mentioned earlier, bordered by a very long, sinuously shaped bench, adorned with mosaics in perfect Gaudí style. Another star of the park is the Gaudí House-Museum, where the famous architect lived. But to this we have devoted the next section…

Gaudí House Museum

2Parc Güell, Gràcia, 08013 Barcelona, Spain

The Gaudí House-Museum is another of Gracia’s must-see attractions. It is located within the Parc Güell, and was the architect’s home for about 20 years. Today, tourists and residents continue to visit it as it houses furniture and objects created by him and his collaborators. Spread over four floors, the ground floor and first floor house the exhibition open to the public, the second floor houses the Enric Casanells library, which can be accessed after requesting a permit, while the third floor is for private use.

A curious fact about the Gaudí House-Museum is that the famous architect, despite being very prolific in his Barcelona, did not design the house in which he lived. It was in fact the work of Francesc d’Assís Berenguer i Mestres, his trusted friend and collaborator.

Casa Vicens

3Carrer de les Carolines, 20-26, Gràcia, 08012 Barcelona, Spain

For fans of Gaudí, the Casa Vicens has a special significance: it was in fact the first building that the famous architect designed and built. It is located in the heart of Gracia, and draws inspiration from Mudejar architecture. Although still immature compared to the great masterpieces that the Master designed in the years to come, the Casa Vicens allows you to come into contact with a less famous and perhaps more authentic reality, which among other things became a symbol of Catalan Modernism, an artistic current that developed in the 20th century.

A visit to Casa Vicens takes place through four distinct areas: the ground floor, where the ticket office and visitor reception area are located, the first and second floors where the permanent and temporary exhibitions are located, the basement used as a shop, and the garden, which is very pleasant and relaxing.

Mercat de l'Abaceria Central

4Gràcia, 08012 Barcelona, Spain

The best place to take in the very special atmosphere of the Gracia district, with its curious mix of residents that includes old people born in the area, young people with dreads, artists and immigrants, is the Central Abaceria Market.

Open for more than a hundred years, it is somewhat reminiscent of the world-famous Boqueria Market near Las Ramblas due to its metal structure and here too you can find an incredible variety of products on sale: more than 600 food specialities including both local and international products.

It is a little more ‘rustic’, less neat than the Boqueria but therein lies its charm. It is a true neighbourhood market where locals go shopping; tourists almost never venture here. If you want to experience Barcelona like a local, shopping at the Abaceria market is an experience not to be missed!

Squares

The squares are the lifeblood of this neighbourhood. Lively and full of bars with outdoor tables, Gracia’s squares are the place where friends of all ages meet for a chat, children play football and young people meet up to start the evening… which might even last longer and end up here!

One of the largest squares in Gracia and probably the most famous is Plaça del Sol5. Other beautiful neighbourhood squares are:

Streets

The first thing that will strike your attention when you arrive in Gracia is the size of the buildings and streets. You will not find big boulevards and tall buildings like in the centre but small streets, many of them pedestrianised.

You will not find them mentioned in any tourist guide, yet in our opinion the streets of Gracia are the greatest attraction of the neighbourhood. In fact, one of the best experiences you can have here is to stroll at random, peeking into the windows of local designer clothes shops, bookshops or organic cosmetics shops and stopping in one of the many cafés, some of the best in the city.

Gracia is the right place for shopping and coffee breaks because it is full of shops and cafés with a local clientele, which means no tourist swipes!

The best streets for shopping are Carrer Gran de Gracia and Carrer d’Asturias.

Map

In the following map you can see the location of the main places of interest mentioned in this article.

Fiesta Mayor de Gràcia

The only time when the quiet neighbourhood of Gracia explodes with people is during the Fiesta Mayor de Gracia, an annual event in which all residents passionately participate and people from all over Barcelona flock to.

It takes place in August, usually starting around mid-August for a week, and is a popular, open-air, ticket-free festival.

During the festival period, the streets are decorated with flowers, papier-mâché puppets and colourful banners. The challenge is to create the most beautiful decoration, which will be awarded at the end of the festival. The residents take this competition very seriously: winning is a source of great pride, the effort is therefore maximum and the results are truly spectacular.

In addition to admiring the decorations, at the Gràcia fiesta there is eating and dancing in the streets until late at night, thanks to concerts and shows, loud speakers blasting music, food and beer stalls on tap, and clubs that stay open past normal closing time.

Where to stay in Gràcia

Gracia is an extensive neighbourhood, and although it is not as touristy as other areas of Barcelona, it is definitely well endowed in terms of accommodation. Its residential soul means that prices are not exactly rock-bottom, but it’s still worth it, especially if you’re looking for tranquillity and distance from the city’s noisier places.

In the area you will find hotels of all tastes and categories, from five-star to small family-run pensions. There is of course no shortage of other types of accommodation, such as bed and breakfasts and small privately run flats. As mentioned, if you want to stay closer to the city, choose accommodation south of the Traversa de Dalt, while if you are looking for peace and quiet, especially in the evenings, move to the north, near or far from the Parc Guell depending on your interests and tastes.

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Where to eat in Gràcia

The food and wine aspect alone would be enough to put Gracia on the list of must-sees in Barcelona: this neighbourhood is definitely the best area to eat in Barcelona.

Gracia is the oasis of taste in a hectic city where you often find yourself eating quick, low-quality meals. In Gracia’s small restaurants, cafés and bars, on the other hand, you can eat well, in no hurry and for less money than in other areas.

The variety of cuisines you can try in Gracia is truly impressive. The district is famous for its top-quality ethnic restaurants: sushi, Indian, Syrian, Vietnamese… you could travel around the world without leaving Gracia!

But Gracia is also the ideal area for those who want to try authentic Spanish cuisine, much tastier than the anonymous set menus offered by many restaurants in the more touristy areas. Gracia’s tapas bars are very lively and here you can breathe in an authentic atmosphere: the temptation to eat tapas every day is strong, but we recommend that you treat yourself to at least one lunch or dinner in a typical Catalan restaurant.

Also legendary are Gracia’s cafés, some of the best in the city, perfect for a tasteful start to the day or a mid-afternoon stop for a sweet snack.

Where to go in the evening

The quiet neighbourhood of Gracia is transformed at night and becomes very lively. Don’t expect the crowds of Las Ramblas or other more touristy areas of Barcelona, but Gracia is ideal for an evening of fun.

Many young people from the neighbourhood and beyond gather in the bars and squares of Gracia to chat, drink and play guitar until late. The movida of Gracia coincides with a bar culture intended as a place to relax and socialise, which reveals the popular soul of this neighbourhood.

Widespread in the area is the custom of the botellón, i.e. groups of young people sitting on the ground and spending the evening drinking store-bought alcohol. In theory, drinking outdoors is illegal, but the tradition dies hard: if you are curious about it, don’t be afraid to do so. The best place to spend the evening in this way is Plaça del Sol.

The bars in Gracia are generally very small, but there are plenty of them, very different from each other: ranging from the typical neighbourhood bar for oldies (which is however also frequented by young people here) to the trendy cocktail bar. You will find well-stocked vermouths, bars furnished with bicycle parts, modernist-style lounges, chic gineries, wine bars with a hundred years of tradition… really everything! You will find bars scattered all over the neighbourhood, but the main street is Carrer de Verdi.

There are a few disco-pubs and clubs offering live music and d-j sets, but don’t expect to find mega-discos with thousands of people in the area.

Where is located Gràcia

Gracia is a large neighbourhood of Barcelona that lies northwest of theEixample, and extends to the Parc Guell.

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Insights

Park Güell

Park Güell

The Parc Güell is one of the symbols of Barcelona and by far one of the most popular places for visitors, built by Gaudi in the early 1900s.
Gaudi House Museum

Gaudi House Museum

The Casa-Museu Gaudí, located within the Parc Guell, was the home of the famous architect for about 20 years until his death in 1926.
Casa Vicens

Casa Vicens

Add Casa Vicens, the first house built by Gaudí, to the list of must-see attractions in Barcelona: an extraordinary work-manifesto.