In 1938, during the Spanish Civil War, anti-aircraft fortifications were built on top of the hill of Turò de la Rovira within the Guinardó Park, from which much of the city could be seen. Brick and concrete defences were created and 105 millimetre cannons installed to protect Barcelona from bombardment.
After the war, the cannons were removed and these fortifications were abandoned. Today, almost 90 years later, the Bunkers del Carmel are one of the most interesting hidden attractions to visit in Barcelona: an incredible vantage point, from which you can admire a splendid view of the city with the eye sweeping from the Glories Tower to the Sagrada Familia, from the Cathedral to the city’s beaches. For many locals and visitors, this is the most beautiful vantage point in Barcelona.
Visiting the Bunkers del Carmel is very easy, although since May 2023 some rules have come into force due to the high influx of tourists. Access has remained free of charge, but an enclosure has been created that remains open from 9am to 7.30pm. There is also an automatic entry control system so as not to cause overcrowding.
The best time to visit is at sunset to enjoy the beautiful views of Barcelona, however from spring to late September the sun sets well after closing time. Therefore, the advice is only valid for winter! Finally, remember that there are no services of any kind on site, and loud music speakers are forbidden. It is possible that the Civil Guard will carry out checks, even by plainclothes personnel.
The MUHBA, the Museum of the History of Barcelona, is located in the Barrio Gotico, in Placa del Rei, but has several locations throughout the city. At the Bunkers del Carmel there is a museum branch with free admission, which allows you to go inside the air raid shelter used during the Civil War to defend Barcelona from bombings. You can also see a permanent exhibition called Barcelona al lìmite, where photographs will give you an insight into the living conditions of the inhabitants of the area at the time.
The MUHBA in Turò de la Rovira is open on Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and on weekends from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.; it is closed on New Year’s Day, 1 May, 24 June and Christmas Day.
To get to the Carmel Bunkers, plan on a good uphill walk, as well as a series of steps. For this reason, we advise against visiting for families travelling with pushchairs and also for people with reduced mobility or in wheelchairs.
Beware of the fact that the area is totally exposed to the sun, there are no shaded areas and therefore it can be very hot in summer. We therefore recommend visiting the Carmel Bunkers early in the morning or in the evening close to closing time.
The Carmel Bunkers, although practically unknown only a decade ago, are now very much in fashion, especially thanks to the many photos that have been circulating on social media recently. For this reason, don’t think that you are alone in front of the majestic panorama of Barcelona! On the contrary, your visit will almost certainly be ‘shared’ with dozens of other visitors and tourists, so much so that the inhabitants of the area are starting to become intolerant and concerned about the ever-increasing number of people crowding the area. Therefore, pay respect to the place and the inhabitants, without making too much noise and taking care not to leave rubbish lying around.
The Bunkers del Carmel are located in the neighbourhood of El Guinardó, on the Turò de la Rovira hill. The exact address, if you want to reach it by car, is Carrer de Marià Lavèrnia. Beware that during weekends it is more complicated to find parking; better perhaps to get there by moped, if you can find a way to rent one.
You can also get there by public transport using the metro L5 and getting off at El Carmel; once you get off you will have to walk about a kilometre and a half uphill (quite steeply!) along Carrer de la Conca de Tremo and Carrer de la Gran Vista. Alternatively, you can use the L4 line by getting off at Guinardó – Hospital de Sant Pau and then walking along Carrer del Telegraf. Here you will also have the option of using a lift and public escalators.
A number of bus lines also depart from the centre to the area of Turó de la Rovira. These are 24, 114, 119 and V17, V19. However, we recommend asking the driver for the exact stop where to get off, or alternatively use a navigator.
It is also possible to get there from the Parc Guell; indeed, it is advisable to combine the two visits, as both places are located away from the city’s other attractions. After visiting Parc Guell, exit via Carretera del Carmel and then head towards Carrer de Muhlber, for a walk of about 20 minutes.
The Bunkers del Carmel are located on the hill of Turò de la Rovira, in the area of El Guinardó, in the north-western outskirts of Barcelona.
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